Many of us know to invest in quality items, but it isn’t always obvious which garments can be worn, washed, and lived with over time. It’s easy to fall in love with a design or silhouette, but more often than not, it’s the fibers and materials that quietly decide whether a clothing item will last a season or a decade.
It’s become increasingly important to understand the materials behind an item as planned obsolescence becomes a more prominent business strategy, negatively impacting both people and the planet. Often driven by the trend cycle, planned obsolescence involves intentionally designing products for a limited lifespan. While this is, first and foremost, a sustainability issue, it also fuels a consumption cycle that undermines quality, craftsmanship, and value.
Materials provide valuable insights into both quality and environmental impact, most often classified as natural, semi-synthetic, or synthetic fibers or materials:
Natural Fibers & Materials are derived from plants and animals.
Natural fibers are often considered the crème de la crème of materials, supporting the skin microbiome through breathable, temperature-regulating fabrics. They soften with wear and develop character, becoming well-loved vintage pieces over time. Because they’re not derived from fossil fuels, natural fibers don’t shed microplastics through wear and washing.
They’re preferable in many ways, and voluntary third-party certifications make it easier to identify organic materials and humane animal welfare. Natural fibers are a thoughtful place to start when shopping more intentionally, beginning with the most common natural fibers and materials below:
Alpaca is a soft, warm, lightweight, and naturally hypoallergenic fiber.
The Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS) is a third-party certification developed by the Textile Exchange to improve animal welfare and land management.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) verifies high environmental and social standards throughout the supply chain, including chemical restrictions, wastewater treatment, and worker protections.
Cashmere is a soft and insulating fiber derived from goat hair.
The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS) is a third-party certification developed by Aid by Trade Foundation to improve animal welfare, working conditions, and environmental protection.
Cotton is a breathable, soft, and versatile plant-based fiber.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) verifies high environmental and social standards throughout the supply chain, including chemical restrictions, wastewater treatment, and worker protections.
The Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) is a third-party certification developed by the Regenerative Organic Alliance to represent a high standard for soil health, land management, animal welfare, and worker fairness.
Down is an insulating material derived from the underfeathers of ducks and/or geese.
The Responsible Down Standard (RDS) is a third-party certification developed by the Textile Exchange to improve animal welfare and prohibit live plucking.
Leather is a durable material made from animal hide.
The Leather Working Group (LWG) is a third-party certification developed by LWG Assurance Services to improve tannery-level environmental standards.
Linen is a lightweight, breathable fiber derived from the flax plant.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) verifies high environmental and social standards throughout the supply chain, including chemical restrictions, wastewater treatment, and worker protections.
The Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) is a third-party certification developed by the Regenerative Organic Alliance to represent a high standard for soil health, land management, animal welfare, and worker fairness.
Silk is a smooth, lightweight fiber derived from silkworm cocoons.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) verifies high environmental and social standards throughout the supply chain, including chemical restrictions, wastewater treatment, and worker protections.
Straw is a natural plant material made from dried grasses or stalks.
The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) verifies that forest materials are sourced from responsibly managed forests that meet strict environmental, social, and economic standards.
Suede is a soft, velvety leather made from the underside of animal hide.
The Leather Working Group (LWG) is a third-party certification developed by LWG Assurance Services to improve tannery-level environmental standards.
Wool is a warm, moisture-regulating fiber derived from sheep.
The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) is a third-party certification developed by the Textile Exchange to improve animal welfare and land management.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) verifies high environmental and social standards throughout the supply chain, including chemical restrictions, wastewater treatment, and worker protections.
Semi-Synthetic Fibers are derived from natural plant cellulose.
Semi-synthetic fibers begin as plants, most specifically natural cellulose, and are chemically processed to be spun into yarn. Cellulose molecules are strong and rigid, forming the structural framework of plant cell walls, so the chemicals are needed to reform and spin the fibers, unlike natural fibers like cotton or linen.
Chemical processing can be performed in open-loop or closed-loop processes, which significantly affects environmental impact. Closed-loop processes are designed to recapture and reuse chemicals and treat and reintroduce wastewater, significantly reducing the amount that escapes into the soil, water, or air. Open-loop processes do not undergo this effort and thus have a greater environmental impact.
Since closed-loop processes are preferred for minimal environmental impact, businesses have established trademarks to make their semi-synthetic fibers easier to identify, detailed alongside common semi-synthetic fibers below:
They’re preferable in many ways, and voluntary third-party certifications make it easier to identify organic materials and humane animal welfare. Natural fibers are a thoughtful place to start when shopping more intentionally, beginning with the most common natural fibers and materials below:
Acetate is a glossy, smooth fiber derived from wood pulp.
Naia™ Acetate is produced by Eastman in a closed-loop process.
Cupro is an alternative fiber to silk derived from cotton linters.
Bemberg™ Cupro is produced by Asahi Kasei in a closed-loop process.
Lyocell is a durable, breathable fiber derived from wood pulp.
TENCEL™ Lyocell is produced by Lenzing in a closed-loop process.
Modal is a soft, lightweight fiber derived from beechwood.
TENCEL™ Modal is produced by Lenzing in a manufacturing process that recovers high chemical rates (not officially closed-loop).
Rayon is a soft, breathable fiber often made in an open-loop process.
Viscose is a type of rayon fiber that mimics the look & feel of silk.
Synthetic Fibers & Materials are derived from fossil fuels.
Synthetic fibers are often best avoided because they’re derived from petroleum, shedding microplastics when worn and washed. Still, an all-or-nothing approach isn’t always feasible, and an 80/20 balance between natural and synthetic fibers can feel less restrictive long-term. I wear synthetic activewear, opting for durable fibers that allow me to buy less, whereas my younger sister shops for trendy items secondhand.
It’s a balance that varies by preference and lifestyle, as changing habits gradually is better than avoiding intentional consumption altogether. Just begin checking garment materials, and you’ll be shocked by how often you see these synthetic fibers:
Acrylic is a lightweight plastic fiber that mimics the look & feel of wool.
Elastane (Spandex) is a type of plastic fiber used to provide stretch.
Faux Fur is an alternative to animal fur made from plastic fibers.
Faux Leather is an alternative to animal leather made from plastic.
Nylon is a type of plastic fiber used for durability and stretch.
Polyester is a type of plastic fiber that is lightweight & wrinkle resistant.
Sequins are plastic embellishments used for shine and texture.
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